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posts tagged "wingtips"

How Much Time Do You Have?

Wingin’ It

We often discuss the most timeless pieces of menswear. Is it the double-breasted suit? A piece that came to life in the 1930’s inspired by the naval reefer jacket and has returned to prominence seems like the obvious choice, and maybe it is. However, style starts from the ground-up, and so today I’m going to address the wingtip. Falling under the larger category of Brogue shoes, it is characterized by its multi-piece, leather uppers which start at the cap-toe of the shoe and fan around like a widows peak hair line back around to the side of the shoe. Resembling almost a “W” at the toe, the wingtip traces origins back to Ireland or Scotland.

This historic piece of menswear has lasted the test of time, and become such a staple in modern design that we now find variations of it applicable to every sartorial situation and every dressing dilemma. Today I will explore 3 vastly different types of wingtips, and I how sport ‘em all uniquely.

Saturday Swag, Saturnight Sharp

This pair of Generic Surplus Leather Wingtip Sneakers has been in my arsenal for about 2 years, and while this pair begins to fade, I just ordered a new pair in black. These shoes deserved the re-order for one reason only, versatility. Pair em with Jeans like these Levi’s 511’s, a white T-Shirt, Shawl Collar Cardigan, and a Barbour Coat for a Saturday Spring Brunch. Then, throw em together with a deep blue suit, a pattern spread-collar shirt (gingham perhaps), and go out with a sharp, yet understated and casual look.

 

Weekly War

Traditional Wingtips have truly lasted the changing trends. The design, wing-curve, and perforated detailing have for the most part stayed consistent. This pair of red brick-brown wingtips from Antonio Mauritzi updates the tradition with a more dominant sole, for an authoritative edge. I wear these with forest green cords, this striped, contrast collar shirt, tie, and a charcoal wool suit jacket for a weekday office look. On Summer Fridays go casual with a pair of cuffed Jeans, a striped collarless shirt, and a waist-coat for a refinely laid-back office look. You’re going straight to the Hamptons afterwards anyway, right?

Evening Imperial

These black dress shoes may not strike as the traditional definition of a wingtip, lacking the iconic w-curve, but the perforated detailing on the toe definitely call to mind the historic shoe. It’s updated with a modern shape, not too pointed, but sharply curved for sleek elegance. Wear this with the full charcoal grey suit from above, White Spread-Collar, and a grey knit tie for special evening events that require a sharp, traditional look with a hint of detail.

When in doubt just wing it.

Cole Haan x Nike x Tom Sachs Mission Control Shoes

I thought wingtips could do no wrong. I thought Cole Haan could continue the Luna Grande tradition making incredibly slick modern wing tips. Let it be known, I am mistaken. The idea of taking the iconic shoe style and modernizing it with an iconic sneaker brand seems like it could work…however in reality it reminds me of the classic heaven scene in Happy Gilmore where Happy’s Grandmother dances, his girlfriend carries pitchers of beer…and then Shooter McGavin invades the grassy lawn and ruins everything - which is to say it’s a little more like hell.

Just because two brands are awesome doesn’t always mean they are awesome together (just like two awesome foods that are awesome, don’t just magically taste euphoric together - take Ahi Tuna and Chocolate, i’ve tried it, it doesnt work). The prominent Nike swoosh totally cheapens the Wing Design that originated about a century ago. The only great thing about these shoes…they aren’t for sale.

Cole Haan - Evolution of the Wingtip

Great picture into how menswear has evolved, why the cyclical nature of style will keep now keep mens style a popular subject. On the far right, the Lunar Grand Wingtip is a super modern take on the classic style. A perfect example of why the rise of Menswear will continue to stick - we pay homage to our heritage, while updating the function

More Here

Barker Black shop NYC

Interesting presentation with the shoe shaper as the stand.
As always, finding ways to uniquely modernize classic styles is a sign of great design.
9Sharp

Harry’s of London - Wingtip Oxfords, Dark Brown

A very nice modernization of the classic style. The stitching is clean and simple, and the cap-toe features no extra detailing you would usually see on a wingtip, its very modern, but i like it. 

Available on gilt.com

Harry’s of London - Wingtip Oxfords, Dark Brown

A very nice modernization of the classic style. The stitching is clean and simple, and the cap-toe features no extra detailing you would usually see on a wingtip, its very modern, but i like it.

Available on gilt.com

Top: Junya Watanabe - Wingtip Sneakers

Bottom: Generic Surplus - Wingtip Sneakers

Those Junya Watanabe sneakers are sharp, clean lines, simple stitching, and the red insole is an incredible detail. Still, they probably run at least a few hundred dollars, likely more. On the bottom are a pair of Generic Surplus Wingtips (I own the same pair in tan). They are super comfortable, basics, clean, crisp, and have lasted over a year. Save the money - the style is just as great.

Those are boots made for work.

Suede on dark leather, subtle detailing, classic wingtip, nothing overstated…it’s in the details 

(Source: simplypi)